Mumbai: In a loss to the city’s rich culinary heritage, B. Merwan & Co, the legendary Irani restaurant near Grant Road station, has closed its doors permanently after over a century of operation. A handwritten note pasted on the restaurant’s closed entrance simply read, “We are closed. We thank you for your patronage,” signaling the end of an era.
The closure comes after the establishment briefly shut down in 2014 but reopened following emergency repairs. This time, sources indicate that the closure is final. A family member, speaking anonymously, cited internal disputes as the reason behind the decision, describing it as a reluctant farewell to a piece of old Bombay.
Famous for its melt-in-the-mouth mawa cakes, B. Merwan & Co was a beloved institution among generations of Mumbaikars. Its signature cakes, which customers cherished for their golden-brown perfection, were so popular that by mid-morning, supplies often ran out. Regulars recall how the staff, including Boman at the counter, would helplessly explain the unavailability to disappointed patrons.
For many, the bakery’s mawa cakes and classic Irani breakfast items such as double ande ka masala omelette, bun maska, and paani kum chai became a part of their daily routine. The café’s vintage ambiance—glass-topped tables and traditional Irani chairs—offered a nostalgic glimpse into the city’s bygone days. It was more than just a eatery; it was a social hub where patrons would spend hours chatting or solving crossword puzzles while commuters hurried past.
The restaurant’s decline reflects a broader trend of shrinking Irani cafes across Mumbai. Last year, another historic Irani eatery, Yazdani in Fort, closed its dine-in service, continuing only with takeaway options. Modern cost-cutting measures, such as self-service setups introduced at B. Merwan, failed to resonate with loyal customers, further hastening its decline.
Many enthusiasts now lament the loss of this historic landmark, reminiscing about simpler times. Currently, the few remaining authentic Irani cafes in Mumbai include Cafe Sassanian near Dhobi Talao, famed for its plum cake, and Koolar at King’s Circle, known for its authentic black chai with a twist of lime.
As B. Merwan joins the list of lost Mumbai landmarks, it marks the end of an era that symbolized the city’s diverse culinary and cultural tapestry.
